Paper short abstract:

The paper aims to discuss tarkin - a dish of fermented fish from Northern Sudan. We trace the history of tarkin production and consumption in the "traditional" culture as well as in modern processes of heritagization and identity making. The paper is based on ethnographic experiences in 2022.

Paper long abstract:

The paper aims to discuss tarkin (meluha) - a dish of fermented fish from Northern Sudan (former Nubia) - that can be locally conceptualised as a social boundary between Nubians of riverain Northern Sudan and the others. One of the popular Nubian proverbs says "If you don't eat tarkin, you're not a Nubian". While for the Nubians preparing and eating tarkin is a matter of good taste, sophistication, generosity, traditionalism and health, the other Sudanese or even Nubians living in the diaspora treat it rather with disgust. We look at this regional Nubian cuisine as a symbol of belonging and identity. We trace the history of tarkin production and consumption in the "traditional" culture as well as in modern processes of heritagization and identity making. In this very contest we would like to raise the following questions: how particular food can be transformed into heritage food, what conceptualisations and performances accompany it and what do they really mean? Finally, what effect this kind of liminal food might have on the work of an ethnographer in the field? The paper is based on ethnographic experiences in Mahas region (Northern Sudan) in 2022.