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Accepted Paper:

Life span of a tradition. Is the new triumph of colostrum possible?  
Anu Järs (Estonian National Museum)

Paper short abstract:

The paper analyses the tradition of using colostrum in Estonian cuisine on the basis of cookbooks, archival sources and fieldwork materials. How have the practices of using colostrum and meanings of it changed? Is it possible to revive the tradition?

Paper long abstract:

Making dishes out of colostrum is an old tradition in Estonia. Being in the menu of Estonian and Swedish-speaking peasants as well as Baltic German elites, it was used for cooking throughout Estonia. Currently, that knowledge and skills have almost disappeared. Very few families keep cows of their own nowadays.

For many centuries, the productivity of cows was low and milk was available only seasonally. The first milk produced by a cow in spring after giving birth was considered very special. The development of livestock husbandry at the end of the 19th century led to a new level of milk production. Unlike ordinary milk, which went for sale, colostrum remained for the family's own consumption. People were taught to use this nutritious raw material in diverse ways. During the Soviet times, the availability of colostrum and its use as a food began to decrease.

Today, the benefits of colostrum are much talked about. Yet, due to Estonian health regulations, it is difficult to sell it. It is easier to buy colostrum health products in the pharmacies and health shops rather than buy colostrum straight from a farm. For some people, colostrum awakes nostalgic memories of childhood; for the others, it seems disgusting or controversial.

In this paper, I will analyse the development of the tradition of using colostrum in Estonia on the basis of cookbooks, archival sources and fieldwork materials. How have the practices of using colostrum and meanings of it changed? Is it possible to revive the tradition?

Panel Medi01
Changing moralities and practices of healthy eating
  Session 1 Tuesday 16 April, 2019, -