Paper short abstract:

This paper focuses on how traditional knowledge of Hmong and Yao distilled alcohol is being forgotten, preserved, or transformed as alcohol enters regional and global markets. However, state approaches to encourage upland alcohol as a regional commodity are having some unexpected consequences.

Paper long abstract:

The unique taste Vietnamese rice liquor has garnered recognition in international spirits competitions in recent years. Meanwhile, the growing middle class of Kinh lowlanders and the expansion of the tourism industry in the uplands has increased demand for traditionally distilled alcohol across ethnic minority communities in the Sino-Vietnamese borderlands. Despite the essential roles that rice alcohol plays in ceremonial rituals and social interactions, there has been limited investigation into how traditional ecological knowledge is changing in local alcohol production under the context of state cultural preservation policy and development goals. This paper focuses on how traditional knowledge of Hmong and Yao distilled alcohol is being forgotten, preserved, or transformed as alcohol enters regional and global commodity chains. Drawing conceptually from actor-oriented livelihood approaches, we conducted 63 semi-structured and conversational interviews with distillers, traders, and consumers in three communes in Lào Cai province. Findings show that the transfer of alcohol production knowledge through practice is limited as the younger generations of Hmong and Yao adults are generally searching for work away from the homestead. Producers opt to buy convenient commercial sources of fermentation agents instead of making plant-based fermentation agents. However, state approaches to encourage upland alcohol as a regional commodity are also having some unexpected consequences. In sum, upland minority distillers have their own visions for their commodity in this frontier region, and this vision is not always aligned with lowland trader ambitions or state frontier 'development' goals.