Paper short abstract:

Ugandan born, London-based fashion designer José Hendo is reframing the centuries old tradition of Ugandan barkcloth production and use in both aesthetic and commercial contexts. In this paper the role of contemporary fashion in the construction and expression of new identities will be explored.

Paper long abstract:

Barkcloth, a material which before the wide availability of cotton cloth played a vital role in Ugandan life, has in recent years enjoyed a resurgence of attention. A variety of artists and designers from Uganda, are exploring its physical and symbolic properties. This paper focuses on the work of Ugandan born, London-based fashion designer José Hendo, who has brought barkcloth to haute couture. Her experimentation with this material has led to innovative and unique collections which push the boundaries of design and construction. Inspired by her Ugandan heritage, she is also an activist for the revitalisation of the traditions of barkcloth production in Uganda. 'Barkcloth to the Roots'(B2TR) is Hendo's initiative 'to promote the use of barkcloth globally in the modern world, anchored in the ethos of sustainable development goals … to preserve both our heritage and the environment', and brings together people working with barkcloth, including those who farm, harvest and process it.

Not only has her work featured internationally, including Kampala Fashion Week, but a piece was also recently acquired by the Museum of Uganda. In this context her work is an expression of a commitment to promoting and regenerating local barkcloth industry, and symbolic of collective agency in fashioning notions of tradition, authenticity and identity. Her reframing of this centuries old tradition in both aesthetic and commercial contexts provides an opportunity to reflect on the role of contemporary fashion in the construction and expression of new identities.