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Accepted Paper:

Mobility of embroidery: commoditization of an ethnic craft  
Anu H Gupta (Panjab University)

Paper short abstract:

Traditional embroidery of Punjab in India has traversed from a non-commercial activity to a commercial connotation.Media has played an important role in highlighting the modification in traditional work and commoditization.This transformation has brought a change in craft and lives of craftswomen.

Paper long abstract:

The craft of Phulkari with changing times has traversed through various destinations. The embroidered textiles have moved a long way from fields to ramp and commercially explored the national and international markets. There is a shift from traditional work culture-from a personal product to a commodity. This mobility has led to the change in material form of this crafted item and even the association with the craft. Media has played a vital role in popularising the craft. Punjabi culture whether depicted in movies; theatre, art forms, photography etc. are incomplete without Phulkari. Thanks to the usage of ICT which has made it available to the people across the globe. Being a symbol of fortune, it has become very popular amongst the non-Punjabis too. Even the designers are exploring new designs in the embroidered craft. This is now not only limited to the odhini but to a variety of products in the market. This translation of a leisure activity into a commercial venture gives a sense of control to women who have the courage to take it beyond the territorial boundaries of domesticity. This paper examines the role of media in the transference of embroidery and the women embroidering the craft for commercial purposes.

Panel PE21
Human life, enterprise and market (IUAES Commission on Enterprise Anthropology)
  Session 1 Tuesday 6 August, 2013, -