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ANT017


Critical perspectives and challenges in material culture research: Central Asian Textiles (HALI, 2025) by Snezhana Atanova and Theresa Tereza Hejzlarová 
Convenor:
Snezhana Atanova (Nazarbayev University Constructor University)
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Chair:
Alima Bissenova (Nazarbayev University)
Discussant:
Kulshat Medeuova (L.N. Gumilyov Eurasian National University)
Format:
Roundtable
Theme:
Anthropology & Archaeology

Abstract

When we say that the textile art of Central Asia goes back to ancient times, we think immediately of the Pazyryk carpet (5th–4th centuries BCE). Alongside this most ancient pile carpet, the excavated burial mounds of the Altai people in Siberia also revealed a felt carpet with appliqués, and wonderful variations of other textile pieces made of felt, wool and silk.A comparison of finds from the Issyk burial mound (6th–5th centuries BCE) in southeastern Kazakhstan, the treasures of Noin-Ula (late 1st century BCE to first half of the 1st century CE) in northern Mongolia and, finally, the discoveries at Ukok on the Russian border with Mongolia, China and Kazakhstan (5th–3rd centuries BCE), suggests a close connection between nomadic people. Their artistic aesthetic unfolded across the vast expanse of the Great Steppe, from Transbaikalia in the east to the Danube in the west, where archaeological evidence reveals that nomadic peoples were familiar with both wool and silk, a testament to their vibrant exchanges and enduring contacts with settled neighbours. Starting with this preface, the present co-authored volume seeks to open a discussion that extends beyond the rich historical trajectories of Central Asian textiles. Rather than reducing textiles to their decorative qualities or treating them solely as objects of historical interest, it invites a closer examination of the ways in which they are interwoven with everyday life, accompanying the peoples of the region throughout the entire life cycle, from birth to death, and playing a vital role in rites of passage, shaping everyday practices, and embody festive celebrations, while also becoming entwined with wider ideological narratives and political projects that both reflect and actively shape social life. The book also considers why the study of textiles remains essential today: it calls for sustained dialogue with artisans and bearers of traditional knowledge, as well as for active support of the continuity of living textile practices. In doing so, it emphasizes the importance of recognizing textiles not only as cultural artifacts but as knowledge systems that continue to evolve. At the same time, we address the question of proper attribution and naming of textiles in local terminologies and languages, particularly within academic publications and museum contexts, where such precision is essential for scholarly rigor and for research that is respectful and responsible toward cultural contexts.