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Paper long abstract:

This paper aims to explore how the Khujand's proximity to international borders affects Tajik women's fashion and women's perceptions of their national dress.

Women's national dress, or 'libosi milli', is a crucial piece of Tajikistan's brand image: a brand image that the government has even tried to actively enforce in recent years. Scholars have begun to examine this politicization, from Marintha Miles' exploration of Muslim headdress in 2015 to Diana Ibañez-Tirado's article on balance between national dress and foreign fashions in 2016.

Yet, these scholars have concentrated on the capital, Dushanbe, and the southern Kulob region. No research has been conducted on what influences fashion in the northern Sughd region, whether that be national narratives of fashion, international inspiration, or the conflict between modern and traditional conceptions of what it means to be 'Tajik'. This question is vital given the region's status as a multinational space where ethnic Tajiks live side-by-side with Uzbek and Kyrgyz people and 'nationality' does not necessarily match borders.

I conducted research in Khujand over July and August, with the support of the Laidlaw Undergraduate Research Programme. To complete this project, I interviewed over 40 women, primarily from Khujand, who are involved in the fashion industry as fabric sellers, seamstresses, embroiderers, and designers. I documented all these interviews, as well as the sartorial choices of women around the city and in several surrounding villages, on film.

I ultimately hope to present a range of attitudes towards national dress, from the perspectives of those involved in its creation.