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Paper Short Abstract:

This paper will attempt to understand the evolution of Patani as a cultural attire through the lenses of memory and political history of the ST(Scheduled tribes) Movement of the Koch Rajbongshis of Assam. It will particularly focus on the oral narratives collected from women, the process of Sanskritization and contemporary ideological contestations regarding Patani.

Paper Abstract:

"Patani", a 3 to 4 yards long traditional attire of the Koch Rajbongshi community of Assam and North Bengal, India has a lot of political history behind its remodelling. An attire majorly worn by the community women of common origin, it has been hitting the current market with varied styles from the last decade. However, the most popular one today is the yellow Patani, also called “Beshor Phuliya Patani” or “Katholiya Patani”. It is associated with the symbol of the “Royal” lineage of the community and the auspicious nature of the colour yellow typically worn during wedding rituals in earlier days. But behind the glorification of this traditional attire lies the silent injustice of restricting women as the sole models for carrying the burden of safeguarding identity, labelling women as the flag bearers for the community’s upward mobilisation. Also, an unconscious attempt to institutionalise traditional attire poses a threat to the sanctity of a cultural marker as well as commodifying women’s bodies as a symbol of agitation. This paper will attempt to understand the evolution of Patani as a cultural attire through the lenses of memory and political history of the ST(Scheduled tribes) Movement of the Koch Rajbongshis of Assam. It will particularly focus on the oral narratives collected from women, the process of Sanskritization and contemporary ideological contestations regarding "Patani".