Contribution short abstract:

In my paper, I analyze the cultural and social roles of clothing, primarily in relation to identity and interethnic relations. Traditional clothing (gákti) and its modern variations represent multiple meanings for the Sámi, not only through colors and patterns but also through the creation-process.

Contribution long abstract:

I outline how certain iconic elements of Sámi culture are used in both national and international contexts based on inductive studies. The Sámi, who live in four countries (Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia), are the only indigenous people in the European Union and play a significant role in international indigenous movements. While today the Sámi have autonomy (except in Russia) and have their parliaments in the three Scandinavian countries, they encountered significant oppression until the mid-20th century. Their cultural values were often stigmatized and marginalized. The oppression resulted in a process of assimilation and the disappearance of many cultural elements. In the mid-20th century, a Sámi intellectual group put these stigmatized cultural components at the center of a revitalization process. This movement became so successful that by the final decades of the century, Sámi culture not only strengthened but also gained popularity beyond its ethnic boundaries. By the 21st century, Sámi traditional clothing, and visual motifs had become widely accepted, often appearing in non-Sámi contexts as well, including media events, tourism, and commerce. However, this widespread use has usually not been regarded with pleasure by the Sámi community. It has – as an example – led to even international copyright disputes. The Sámi are trying to prevent or at least limit the free use of their cultural assets by outsiders. I briefly outline some examples when the use of Sámi cultural traits (like Sámi clothing) called forth serious reactions and social movements because the Sámi community considered them as cultural colonization.