Paper short abstract:

Using autoethnographic lens this paper explores the embodied, sensorial and affectionate aspects of food-related fieldwork carried out in Mexico. It focuses on foodwork and food self-care strategies of an anthropologist studying food heritage in times of increasing food hazards and uncertainty.

Paper long abstract:

While food-related fieldwork is usually perceived as pleasant or even passionate labor this paper focuses on understudied, omitted and silenced aspects of anthropological food studies - its embodied, sensorial and affectionate (un)pleasant facets. In classic ethnography anthropologist’s body becomes a research tool, often overburden with uncommon activities: taking part in fiestas, excessive eating and drinking, exposed to food risks and hazards as well as emotional distress.

This paper is based on the results of a fieldwork carried out between 2011-17 and 2021-23 in the city of Oaxaca and surrounding communities. Using autoethnographic lens I analyze my ethnographic food-related practice in Oaxaca. Over a decade of studying culinary heritage made me – in the eyes of many Oaxacans engaged in the regional gastronomy - an “expert” on local food(ways). As a result I was often invited (and sometimes obliged) to participate in various gastronomic events e.g. tasting 8 course menus in local restaurants or mezcal (50% agave distillate) savouring at bars and workshops.

In this presentation I focus on my foodwork and food-care strategies while living and doing fieldwork in Oaxaca. Beginning with attempts at negotiating the amount of food/alcohol intake at public events, evaluating the quality and safety of served dishes, avoiding certain risky food-related situations, securing the source of safe drinking water to learning about regional herbs and plants as remedies for indigestion, hangover, food allergies and stress. And last but not least, keeping a healthy diet (in my understanding of the term) while at my Oaxacan home.