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Accepted Paper:

Nostalgic food and memory of taste in migration flows  
Marijeta Rajkovic Iveta (University of Zagreb) Paula Gadze (Universidad de Buenos Aires)

Paper short abstract:

This paper is based on a multi-sited fieldwork among immigrants in Argentina and in Croatia. It presents stories of traditional, ethnic foods and tastes that encourage nostalgia, serve as a “medicine” against homesickness but also represent cultural heritage and identity.

Paper long abstract:

The presentation is based on an ethnological multi-sited fieldwork among immigrants: Croats in Argentina and Croats from Argentina in Croatia. The research focused on immigrants and their descendants, as well as representatives of immigrant communities who order and present food. The sources of data for the paper, apart from interviews, were: recipes, cookbooks, photos, blogs, and social networks. Having moved from Croatia to Argentina, Croatian immigrants took with them their family cookbooks and recipes from the old country. The immigrants never abandoned their culinary heritage, but quite the opposite: "Croatian cuisine" was one of the ways to preserve memories, flavours, and knowledge of their home country. When they came back to Croatia, Croats from Argentina brought Argentinian recipes to Croatia. Food plays an important role in family and friendly gatherings on Sundays, holidays, annual and traditional celebrations, gatherings in immigrant clubs, and presentation of immigrant cultural heritage and identity at festivals and events. The presentation will include various stories on the importance of preserving and transferring family, regional and ethnic recipes, teaching how to prepare and present food. We have noted migrant experiences regarding modifications of recipes due to climate differences and ingredient availability (ethnic shops, sending and transporting ingredients in baggage). Authentic ways of preparing and consuming food arouse nostalgia, start stories on the immigrants' past and origin, which contribute to the cohesion of the community, maintaining and strengthening ethnic identities. Certain foods, drinks and flavours serve as "medicine" against homesickness.

Panel Food002
Narratives of good food: utopias and realities of stability and social change
  Session 1