Author:Marija Gačić (Independent researcher)
Paper short abstract:
At the end of the 20th century in Croatia began intensive processes of reconstructing folk costumes according to old samples. What is the position and meaning of folk costumes today in festive context? Who sets the criteria of rating good or bad reconstruction?
Paper long abstract:
Croatian ethnographic space accommodates a large number of types and varieties of folk costumes. At the end of the 20th century began the intensive process of reconstruction of folk costumes according to samples from old photos and original specimens. Over time, there has been an emphasis on the "good" reconstruction and criticism of "bad" ones. In an attempt to institutionalize criticism of reconstructed costumes, in 2011 the event "Renewing Our Heritage" has been launched, it aims to present the reconstructed costumes and rewarding the most successful ones. Who has set the criteria of good or bad reconstruction in general? What does it mean creating new costumes for people who create them and wear them? Why not allow innovations in contemporary making costumes? Why do people who dress in traditional costumes look for the dress code even where there is none? In the end, why do ethnologists accept "police work" on the ground when it comes to folk costumes?
Finally, the intention of this paper is to determine the position of folk costumes today: is the creation of new costumes utopia due to the fact that their life is limited to some celebrations and folklore performances?
Folk costume in the ritual year and beyond: heritage, identity marker & symbolic object (Ritual Year SIEF Working Group panel)