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Accepted Paper

Shoveling down skyr: ethnography of dairy consumption   
Vilborg Bjarkadóttir (University of Iceland)

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Paper short abstract

The text explores skyr as a cultural phenomenon, from traditional communal meals on Icelandic farms to individualized consumption in modern times. It reflects on how skyr has shifted from a shared household ritual to a marketed product that shapes new forms of intimacy, memory, and eating practices.

Paper long abstract

Dining, whether formal or informal, has long carried layers of meaning. To share a meal is to build intimacy, but also to create distance, since rules of pace, portion, and propriety are always at play. Across cultures, feasts are shaped by unspoken norms, making the table itself an altar where food is offered and bonds are reinforced.

In farming society of Iceland, skyr was a staple and essential knowledge. Housewives transformed milk into skyr, a task embedded in the rhythm of household labor and the natural cycles of the farm. Skyr’s flavors and colors shifted with the seasons, and its living bacterial flora mirrored the slow tempo of agrarian life. Eating together was a shared ritual, each spoonful tied to land, labor, and kinship.

Despite this transformation, skyr continues to evoke cultural memory and intimacy.

In the 21st century, this structure is fraying under the pressures of capitalism and speed. Communal dishes have largely given way to single-serving tubs, consumed on the go. Family-sized portions persist, but often in large plastic containers that flatten intimacy into convenience. Dairies, through packaging, portion sizes, and advertising campaigns, shape the rhythm of eating skyr today. Yet the food retains a certain intimacy. Though the communal dish has splintered, the act of eating skyr still invites us into a dance between past and present, memory and marketing, solitude and togetherness.

Panel P52
Talking tables: food, stories, and social encounters
  Session 2 Sunday 14 June, 2026, -