Paper short abstract:

A dynamic fashion scene in Lagos is developing as young designers create new spaces and collectives. Inspired by the energy of the city, they explore identity and challenge social values through their practice. In the process they are re-imagining how the city works in a post-colonial context.

Paper long abstract:

Despite the lack of infrastructure, transport and government support, a dynamic fashion scene in Lagos is developing as young designers create new spaces and hubs. In the process they craft self-organised creative communities. The players are from moneyed or educated backgrounds since an education abroad is a key asset in terms of forging a designer identity, and acquiring cultural capital. Many designers continue to split their time between centres in Europe and the US, and Lagos. Designer labels such as Maki Oh, Orange Culture and Daola Segoe have received recognition on the international fashion map. Others such as Adeju Thompson and Bubu Osigo are in the process of establishing their brands. Entrepreneur Igwe Ukpe has set up 'Stranger' which is a concept store, café and events space for progressive designers. The use of artisanal textiles and locally made products is a feature in some designer's work in opposition to the dominant forces of global capitalism. Designers frequent concept stores, music events and fashion parties. The experience of living in the city is commonly cited as vital for their fashion practice. They comb the vast fabric markets for fabrics and ideas and are inspired by the colour and vitality of the city. They are re-imagining social worlds and work in the city, and self-defining what being Nigerian means. Despite the challenges of production, the scene may offer a glimpse into a sustainable African fashion future and creative economy, moving beyond traditional notions of urban development.