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Accepted Paper:

To show one's true colours: Dress style as materialized national narrative  
Kathrin Knodel (German Research Foundation (DFG))

Paper short abstract:

After the Burkinabe insurrection 2014 an expectable rearrangement of the political scene took place. This contribution sheds light on a national specificity: the politicisation of fashion in public and private contexts that can be understood as a statement and rewriting of the political narrative.

Paper long abstract:

History is always written backwards whereas disruptive events mark the turning of the page. Burkina Faso has been a much discussed example of a relatively peaceful and relatively successful insurrection and regime change since the corresponding events in 2014. Since then a rearrangement of the political scene has taken place as well as a rewriting of the national history. Part of this rewriting is the repositioning towards the former regime, its president and his predecessor. As such the country serves as a very enlightening example of politics, nation building and citizen identity as a process and on-going performance. Within an ever changing political context different aspects of history are highlighted, others are concealed.

Besides universal aspects of national narratives this contemporary anthropological contribution sheds light on a Burkinabe specificity: the politicisation of fashion in public and private contexts. The above mentioned processes of retelling the national narrative are materialized in a remarkable change in clothing and fashion. Dress style as part of everyday lifestyle has become highly political. Different actors and societal groups invented a fashion code that makes a statement about their understanding of the political past and their vision about the future. Namely, the groups that will be discussed in this paper are politicians of the recent government, urban youths and artists that all have their own way to perform the new state. While authorities prefer a specific type of hand-made clothes, urban youths and artists go for a sportive Burkinabe brand that stands for a certain patriotism.

Panel Pol40
The politics of national narratives: performing and challenging dominant ideas of the state in Africa
  Session 1 Thursday 13 June, 2019, -