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Short abstract:

This paper explores food quality standards, focusing on Galápagos coffee denomination of origin. It reveals diverse qualification practices and their interaction with socio-natural narratives, emphasizing standards' role in power dynamics and the need to recognize multiple ontologies.

Long abstract:

This paper examines the coordination of diverse world-making projects inherent in the process of setting food quality standards. We use a case study of the dynamics of standard-setting practices within a state-coordinated project to establish a denomination of origin for coffee from the Galápagos Islands in Ecuador. This project, which sought to restrict the marketing use the archipelago’s name to local residents while promoting socio-ecological sustainability of this ‘natural laboratory’ and national park, became a locus of contention among coffee growers, intermediary traders, government officials, and scientists. Drawing on qualitative data collected in 2018 and 2019, including stakeholder interviews and documents related to the project, we explore the divergent practices proposed to determine eligibility to use the denomination of origin. We employ the analytical framework of ‘ontological politics’ to reveal how different modes of coffee qualification enact distinct versions of coffee, and how qualification practices contribute to the construction of competing narratives of the socio-natural history and future trajectories of the Galápagos Islands. Our analysis underscores how quality standards serve as socio-technical objects that both reflect and shape power dynamics within agricultural values chains. Ultimately, this study suggests that the recognition of multiple ontologies can elucidate the political dimensions of seemingly technical endeavors and demonstrates that authoritative knowledge can be both empowering and limiting for actors competing for market space and recognition in global agrofood systems.