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Accepted Paper:

Ryousangata in Japan: Redefining Authenticity and Imitation through Non-Western Fashion  
Shuan Lin (University College London) Nikita Makarchev (Ohio State University)

Paper short abstract:

Using participant observation, this paper explores Ryousangata as a non-Western modernity. It suggests Ryousangata embraces the absence of authenticity, thus redefining traditional fashion notions. Subsequently, this deepens our insight into the dynamics of cultural identity in a globalized world.

Paper long abstract:

How does the Ryousangata fashion phenomenon in Tokyo challenge the traditional Western grammars of fashion? Existing studies in this area have adopted Western-centric frameworks where authenticity is typically considered a defining element. Moreover, they have used ad hoc methodological techniques with minimum quantitative elements. Accordingly, this paper strives to improve the status quo. First, it draws on the concept of non-Western modernities to guide its analysis and demonstrate how Ryousangata does not align with Western expectation. Second, it implements a comprehensive original survey, informed by qualitative interviews, of young adults in Japan who engage with the Ryousangata fashion phenomenon. Subsequently, the results indicate that the absence of authenticity is a defining characteristic of Ryousangata. As a consequence, Ryousangata represents a shift towards a more fluid and dynamic understanding of style, where reinterpretation, hybridization, and imitation are valued as legitimate forms of creative expression. These results, then, emphasize the relevance of non-Western modernity theory in understanding and interpreting fashion dynamics. Furthermore, they deepen our insight into the complexity of global modernity and contribute to broader conversations about the role of imitation in expressing cultural identity.

Panel P186
Pathologies of imitation
  Session 1 Friday 26 July, 2024, -