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Accepted Paper:
Halal spareribs, mocktails, and cosmopolitan aspirations in Muslim-owned restaurants in Rotterdam
Margaretha van Es
(Utrecht University)
This paper focuses on the emergence of trendy, alcohol-free halal restaurants in Rotterdam, with the aim to conceptualize how these restaurants provide opportunities for young Muslims to momentarily realize aspirations of cosmopolitanism, as well as piety, social mobility, and local belonging.
Paper long abstract:
This paper focuses on the recent emergence of trendy, Muslim-owned restaurants with a halal and alcohol-free menu in Rotterdam, as a material entry point to the study of vernacular cosmopolitanisms. Whereas these restaurants have been subject to controversy, with commentators arguing that they attract a "one-sided patronship", cosmopolitanism is fundamental to the allure of these restaurants. Serving Argentinian T-bone steaks, (veal) spareribs, wagyu beef burgers, sushi, or Tex-Mex food in a fashionable and comfortable setting, these restaurants provide consumers the opportunity to momentarily realize aspirations of cosmopolitanism, together with aspirations of piety, social mobility, and local belonging in a super-diverse city.
There is a growing scholarly consensus that cosmopolitanism is always rooted in specific, culturally committed loyalties and understandings (Pnina Werbner 2006). However, many contemporary discussions about cosmopolitanism seem to rely on a model of concentric circles of local and global belonging. The aim of this paper is to develop new conceptual tools that do better justice to the complex multidimensionality of the cosmopolitan aspirations that are materialized (though never completely fulfilled) in these restaurants, and to gain a better understanding of cosmopolitanism more generally.