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Accepted Paper:

Savoring poleo: some remarks on transnational foodways of a privileged migrant000000000  
Renata Hryciuk (Warsaw University)

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Paper short abstract:

Using an autoethnographic lens I scrutinize the role an herb poleo has come to play in my transnational foodways and professional life. I focus on affective and embodied relations I have developed with this herb over the years and the role it plays in my imaginaries of good transnational life.

Paper long abstract:

Poleo (hedeoma drummondii also known as Drummond's false pennyroyal) forms part of a traditional, ritual culinary culture and ethnomedicinal practices in Oaxaca (Southern Mexico). Rich in antioxidants and pleasant flavor the herb is served as medicinal infusion (e.g. popular remedy for hangover and indigestion) in indigenous communities and used as a culinary spice/endemic ingredient in emerging local gastronomy patronized by culinary tourists, expats and amenity migrants. Commercialized at both traditional and organic markets, restaurants, gourmet shops and on-line it has recently become a mobile actor: from a unique Oaxacan cultural heritage to transnational foodways of tourists and different groups of migrants.

During the past decade, when I have been living off and on in Oaxaca doing fieldwork on gendered food heritage, I became a poleo aficionado (enthusiast) myself. I would always carry back home many bags of dry herbs for self-consumption as well as for my friends and relatives. Poleo is always a most welcome gift.

Using an autoethnographic lens I aim at scrutinizing the role poleo has come to play in my transnational foodways and professional life. As an anthropologist studying foodways (thus often consuming too much of food and drink) I start moving/travelling with poleo not only to savor its taste but to benefit from its curative properties. I focus on affective and embodied relations I have developed with this particular herb over the years and the role it plays in my imaginaries of good transnational life.

Panel P181
Rooting with Plants: Towards a multi species anthropology of displacement and migration
  Session 1 Thursday 28 July, 2022, -