Paper short abstract:

Gahwa, part of the intangible heritage of the UAE, makes coffee, its preparation, and social context, an internationally recognized part of Gulf hospitality, and symbol of national and ethnic identity. Gahwa remains relevant as ceremonial ritual, museum display and now also enjoys a digital life.

Paper long abstract:

In 2015 gahwa (Arabic coffee) was recognized by UNESCO as part of the intangible heritage of the UAE, making coffee, its preparation, and social context, an internationally recognized part of the heritage of hospitality, and symbol of national and ethnic identity. Yet, this most local of beverages is dependent on international trade as coffee came first from the Yemen, now often South Asia, and the cardamom, saffron and rose water used to scent coffee are also imported.

The recognition of gahwa as part of the UAE's intangible heritage came just when the preparation of gahwa was being relegated from an everyday part of social life to an event reserved for special occasions, museum performances and social history lessons. Gahwa preparation is today the focus of national competitive displays.

Across the UAE, gahwa was served in majalis (assemblies) where social hierarchies are made visible through seating order, and where gahwa etiquette is highly ritualized. Attendance at the ruler's majalis was open to men of all status levels. At lower social levels neighbourhood majalis welcomed those living in the quarter and provided opportunities for social mixing, discussion and learning which have all but disappeared today.

Yet hospitality, while encouraging sociality, is offered to outsiders and strangers, potential enemies; and heritage may become little more than the reification of an impoverished invented tradition, reducing culture to routinized performance and hollow form. We discuss aspects of gahwa-related hospitality and heritage, its history and contemporary use and meanings in Abu Dhabi