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Paper short abstract:

In the patrimonialisation of Spanish jamón ibérico and the closely linked dehesa landscape, experiences of flagrant social inequality are not reflected. Cultural memory is subordinate to the ham's marketing and today product differentiation contributes to divergent experiences of this cultural good.

Paper long abstract:

Spanish jamón ibérico de bellota is subject to patrimonialisation and marketing efforts on a local and international scale. It is obtained from the Iberian pig, an autochthonous breed associated with the local dehesa landscape. Iberian ham is protected by a national quality norm and the European denominación de origen protegida (D.O.P.). As becomes visible in the local museos del jamón, the landscape's heritagisation is strictly subordinate to the marketing of Iberian ham. While the pig is depicted as the clear protagonist in the dehesa, the latter seems to have been void of humanity. Consequently, present and past human experiences on the dehesa farms are reduced to the labour during the traditional pig slaughtering. This representational gap induces consumers of this cultural heritage to turn a blind eye on the substantial sociocultural dynamics of the dehesa as a cultural and social landscape. Thus, many elderly recall well that the joy of a precious slice of jamón ibérico was far from ubiquitous among the rural population, the majority of which had to live on whatever they found at their doorstep. Failing to consider the flagrant social inequality of semi-feudalism which pervaded the rural south is rejective of any reappraisal of Spain's recent past. What is more, today's differentiation of jamón ibérico into four quality levels continues social distinction as it allows for some to enjoy a premium-quality ham while 80% of the pieces are produced in animal confinement and sold at lower prices, with clear reflection in their nutritional quality.