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Paper short abstract

In this paper the author would like to investigate the role of Japanese historic textile print design as a medium for art and literature, taking on a work of Santō Kyōden by the title Komon Ganwa <The elegant stories on komon [fabric patterns]> first published in 1790 as a starting point.

Paper long abstract

Komon Ganwa <The elegant stories on komon [fabric patterns]>, by Santō Kyōden, published in 1790 was a best- selling book from the /mitate-bon/ genre, engaging the reader/viewer into various visual puns and allusions based on textile patterns. Kyōden, a skilled literati and merchant, based his work on a long existing tradition of intertwining the writing and visual elements on a single plane.

The aim of the paper is to investigate on how the centuries long tradition of merging text and image is reflected in textile design which in turn serves as a medium for art and literature.

The main points the presentations are as follows.

Historical background and sources

First examples of such works, such as uta-e, where the text of poem accompanied by the visual representation of its subject matter, can be traced to Heain period.

In later periods, the means of embedding the text and meaning into visual representations were not confined solely to literary works, but were utilized in arts and crafts as well. This approach can be found among lacquerwork (maki-e) and textile design which is the main interest of this paper. Such examples will be discussed in the presentation.

The aspect of Edo period print culture (Edo Shuppan Bunka)

The increased literacy during the Edo period enabled the wider audience the access to the written word and created a market for culture mass-consumption aimed at bourgeoisie. This included ukiyo-e prints and book printing, enabling circulation of several copies instead of singular, unique specimens. Kyōden took advantage of those two achievements, being both the writer and illustrator of his books.

De-coding the pattern

For an untrained eye, the patterns could be perceived solely as ornaments, but oftentimes they carried hidden meanings, that could be deciphered and bring new associations. Such examples can be found in hanjimono (puzzle) prints and textile designs associated with famous kabuki theatre actors. The presentation will highlight the use of similar devices in Komon Ganwa.

Keywords: Santō Kyōden, visual literacy, textile design, Edo print culture, mitate