Paper short abstract:

This presentation looks into the innovation and revitalisation of meisen kimono in Chichibu, focusing on the design activities of the weaving studio Arakei Orimono, taking up visual analysis, combined with a narrative analysis and oral history approach conducted from the framework of storytelling.

Paper long abstract:

Japan’s kimono has seen a gradual revitalisation since the 2000s. Within this so-called kimono boom, especially the renewed interest in antique kimono, and meisen kimono in particular, has been of major importance. Responding to this, kimono creators in Chichibu, one of Japan’s main meisen production areas, have actively participated in further developing and promoting the textile, allowing the meisen and kimono boom to remain consistent until the present day.

Existing research has focused on activities undertaken by key institutions and creators in the area, with Ibuka (2005) focusing on the early 2000s, and Nozawa (2021) focusing on more recent activities undertaken mainly by the Chichibu Meisen museum. However, research focusing on the activities and storytelling by Chichibu’s weavers and craftsmen in revitalising meisen has not been conducted thoroughly yet. Therefore, this research looks into the development and revitalisation of meisen in Chichibu, focusing on the weaving studio Arakei Orimono in particular, who have been a key actor in helping develop and sustain the popularity of meisen in the area through new and original design approaches that allow meisen design to be developed from new perspectives.

The research questions behind this case study are as follows: How do Arakei Orimono’s design approaches contribute to the promotion, preservation and innovation of meisen in Chichibu? What are the narratives and stories that support Arakei Orimono’s design activities in the promotion and reevaluation of kimono and its culture? To answer these questions, this research takes up a visual analysis of Arakei Orimono's kimono designs, combined with a narrative analysis and oral history approach, making use of material gathered through interviews, websites, blogs, Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube, conducted from the framework of storytelling. Through these analyses, it will aim to clarify what successful stories and design approaches developed by Arakei Orimono can be useful as a reference of design innovation and revitalisation for other kimono creators.