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Accepted Paper:
Limits to disclosures on modern slavery: UK clothing giants and Bangladeshi readymade garments
Shaila Ahmed
(University of Essex)
Shoba Arun
(Manchester Metropolitan University)
Paper short abstract:
Drawing on value trap slavery (Crane, 2013) framework, the paper demonstrates the gap between UK corporations' disclosures in modern slavery statements, and continued slavery-like work practices in the readymade garment sector of Bangladesh.
Paper long abstract:
Using data from primary research into the readymade garment sector in Bangladesh, this paper draws on the notion of "value-trap slavery" (Crane, 2013) to understand the perpetuation of modern slavery. It seeks to demonstrate the gap between UK corporations' disclosures in modern slavery statements, and continued slavery-like work practices in global supply chains. At the same time, it has shed light on the perpetuation of modern slavery in supply chains, and reflects on the implications of policies to alleviate slavery conditions. Workers, at all levels, continue to be subjected to exploitation, not only departing from the code of compliance but also violating human rights and laws in the settings in which they operate. The supply chain is trapped in a vicious cycle of meeting buyers' demands for shorter lead times and strict delivery standards, accompanied by compliance pressures. All these have brought an acute dimension to factories' approaches to cost recovery. It has been shown that cost recovery is achieved by squeezing wages and restricting other labour rights, through forced overtime, unrealistic production targets, temporary contracts, flexible working and intensive labour processes, which increase the inevitability of modern slavery, in some instances driving it underground. This paper aims to give visibility to inherent tensions between supply chains and their global partners even in the post-Bangladesh Accord situation.