to star items.

Accepted Paper

Behind everyday food: labor and women in the gastronomy sector  
Aliya Bolatkhan (University of Zurich)

Send message to Author

Abstract

Discussions of the gastronomy sector in Kazakhstan frequently frame labor shortages, especially in kitchen positions, as a primary constraint on business operations. Drawing on ethnographic fieldwork in food establishments in southeastern Kazakhstan, this paper challenges this assumption by showing that the issue is not a simple absence of workers, but a reconfiguration of labor under conditions of economic and institutional volatility.

Gastronomy businesses operate within shifting regulatory demands, rising input costs, unstable supply chains, and uneven enforcement of standards. In this context, sustaining everyday operations depends on continuous adjustments in the organization of kitchen labor. 

The paper argues that what is described as a “labor shortage” is better understood as a mismatch between working conditions, expectations, and available forms of labor. Crucially, the sector relies on gendered, low-visibility labor, often performed by middle-aged women. Rather than resolving structural constraints, this labor functions as a stabilizing mechanism that enables businesses to maintain everyday operations and keep food accessible. By foregrounding these hidden forms of work, the paper reframes labor shortage as a narrative that obscures the social organization of labor underpinning the affordability of everyday food.

Panel ANT007
Dealing with Institutional Volatility: Food Production, Processing and Trade in South-Eastern Qazaqstan