Paper short abstract:

This presentation explores the moral discourses that underlie representations of “Appelation of Controlled Origin” labels for Corsican charcuterie (cured meat), arguing that they display a semiotic competition between iconic, indexical and social/relational models of meaning and value.

Paper long abstract:

Corsican charcuterie (cured pork meats) is one of several culturally emblematic products in high demand by tourists and Corsicans alike. In 2012, after 10 years of efforts on the part of producers, several categories of charcuterie acquired the designation "Appelation d'Origine Controlée" [Controlled Designation of Origin] by the French Ministry of Agriculture. From that point on, the labels "lonzu," "coppa" and "prisuttu" could only be applied to products meeting strict criteria regarding the animals' breed (labeled in Corsican as "porcu nustrale" or 'our pig'), where they can be bred, what they can be fed (acorns and chestnuts only in the last 45 days before slaughter) as well as how the meat is cut and cured.

The AOC has since come to frame a moral discourse in which relative value and virtue are constructed around familiar criteria of authenticity related to place, pedigree, person and process.

At the same time, these discourses have opened up another field which is inherently moral: how quality can be discerned and guaranteed and in particular, what the role of texts—labels, appelations—plays. This presentation examines promotional texts and TV documentaries about Corsican charcuterie and official labels, arguing that they display a semiotic competition between iconic, indexical and social/relational models of meaning and value. Language is involved with food as both a discursive medium for the creation of cultural value and as part of a larger semiotic-ideological complex.