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Accepted Paper:

Deconstructing heritage style: craft, culture, and the allure of tradition in contemporary fashion  
Jordan Gorenberg (University of Oxford)

Paper short abstract:

This paper critically examines the concept of heritage style, unpacking its meanings and implications within contemporary fashion and questioning how it is constructed and consumed.

Paper long abstract:

Heritage style, characterised by its emphasis on craftsmanship, durability, and historical continuity, occupies a prominent place in contemporary fashion. However, what exactly constitutes heritage style, and why does it resonate with consumers? This paper seeks to deconstruct the notion of heritage style, analysing how it is constructed, represented, and consumed in digital and cultural contexts.

Drawing on an anthropological framework of material culture and fashion, particularly the works of Daniel Miller, Sophie Woodward and Joshua Bluteau, this paper approaches clothing as cultural artefacts that mediate identity, social values, and cultural narratives. Through desk-based research and the analysis of online sources, including social media platforms and brand narratives, this paper critically examines how heritage style negotiates tensions between authenticity and commodification, tradition and modernity. By interrogating the very term “heritage,” it explores how this aesthetic is imbued with cultural and material significance.

This paper aims to open up questions, offering a foundation for future research into heritage style’s broader implications. By situating this deconstruction within the fields of material culture and fashion anthropology, it contributes to understanding how clothing operates as a cultural artefact, shaping and reflecting the identities of both producers and consumers in an increasingly digitised and globalised fashion landscape.

Panel P09
Fashion ‘n’ anthropology: a convergence of ‘looks’ at dress and adornment