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Accepted Paper:

Anthropology and aesthetics in production of Phulkari  
Anu H Gupta (Panjab University)

Paper short abstract:

Phulkari, a traditional craft of Punjab has undergone a great change in its social and emotional value, usage , production and design. It is also been produced for commercial reasons by women artisans of local community. Many organizations who are working in order to keep this craft alive feel a requirement of continuous flow of designs in terms of motifs,colour pallete,placement etc.

Paper long abstract:

Women of Punjab have developed the art of phulkari production at the cost of some of their very precious moments of leisure. The accomplishment of a bride and her mother and the affluence of the family were judged by the number and elaboration of the Phulkari and the Baghs that she received as a part of her trousseau.In present time, Punjabi woman involve herself in other activities instead of doing embroidery. The social and economical changes in the lifestyle of Punjabis have resulted in a great change in Phulkari-its usage , production and design. It is also been produced for commercial reasons. Whole process of product development in Phulkari involves many stages and out of these , only embroidery (Phulkari) work is done by women artisans of local community. Rest activities are carried out by various vendors. Most of the artisans are not highly educated and are totally dependent on middlemen for marketing purpose. The social and emotional value associated with Phulkari in the past is missing in the artisans. Traders, Govt. organizations and various NGOs in Punjab are working in order to keep this craft alive . They are of opinion that new products with new/stylized/old designs or combination of new and old will add a new value to the existing Phulkaris. This will in turn generate interest of the public or customers in Phulkari and hence a better income for the artisans.

Panel P08
The aesthetics of craft: explorations in the anthropology of craft production
  Session 1