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Accepted Paper:

The Jewellery trail: Interface between the old and the new tradition  
Imtirenla Longkumer (Jawaharlal Nehru University)

Paper short abstract:

Jewellery has moved beyond bones and feathers to gold and diamonds among the Aos of Nagaland. However, when occasion demands the traditional prevails.

Paper long abstract:

Traditional jewellery in Nagaland and among the Aos is prepared with beads of different makes and natural elements. The necklaces of shell beads, stone beads and the glass trade beads are reputed among the Aos. The complex threads of beads are intricately woven by skilled artisans from the community. Some other accessories include the brass cuffs, brass neck rings, wrist bangles, head-hunter necklaces and hairpieces. Many of these are no more made or worn in the traditional way and some are not at all used anymore.

Although there are some Naga ornaments which are of no particular significance and which can be worn by anyone as and when they like, most Naga ornaments have particular meanings and they are therefore 'powerful'. Not surprisingly the right to wear them is strictly controlled.

With Naga society being in tune to the modern wave, much of the jewellery and body adornments are not in vogue. However, it would be misleading to say that the traditional possessions have lost their importance completely. They are used widely on occasions that demand its use. Many ornaments vanished from the community for different reasons. Hence, today, the antique pieces are very expensive and even the freshly made ones are priced high. Unfortunately the traditional jewellery is not much in demand in comparison to the gold and diamond jewellery.

Panel P17
Jewellery as property, jewellery as aesthetics
  Session 1